updatekrot.blogg.se - 95 k1500 no dashlights

#95 k1500 no dashlights manual#

If the dark green wire at the switch is dead - probe the orange wire pair at the headlamp switch:.

If the dark green wire at the switch is hot - verify that the INSTR LPS fuse is making good electrical connection to both of its terminals in the fuse block, then locate and repair the open in the dark green wire between the headlamp switch and the INSTR LPS fuse.

If both sides of the INSTR LPS fuse are dead, probe the dark green wire at the headlamp switch with a test light:.

Make sure the PCB isn't grounding to bare metal.

If only one side of the INSTR LPS fuse is hot, replace the INSTR LPS fuse and locate the short-to-ground in the wiring between the fuse block and the PCB.

Using a pencil eraser, gently burnish the bulb socket connections to the PCB being careful to avoid peeling the copper foil loose from the PCB.

If the gray wire is 'hot' - verify all of the dash bulbs are good, check the electrical connection between the harness connector and the instrument cluster circuit board (PCB), and check the instrument cluster ground connection to the cab sheetmetal.

If the gray wire is 'dead' - verify that the INSTR LPS fuse is making good electrical connection to both of its terminals in the fuse block, then locate and repair the open in the gray wire between the INSTR LPS fuse and the instrument cluster harness connector.

If both sides of the INSTR LPS fuse are 'hot,' probe the gray wire at the instrument cluster harness connector with the test light:.

Use a test light clipped to a verified good ground to probe both sides of the Instrument Lamps (INSTR LPS) fuse. Switch the running lights ON with the dash lamp dimmer rotated all the way counterclockwise.

#95 k1500 no dashlights manual#

Went back to that ground again - took it loose - stripped the wire casing back a couple inches and BINGO!!!!!!!! The wire was rotten - Stripped the wire casing back real goodĪnd got to good clean un-rotten wire - took a FILE to the frame rail rust 'till I found bare metal re-attached the ground VERY WELL -no more taillight problems.Refer to the appropriate year wiring manual in the Tech Section of the Forum, about half-way down the page. Thought I had done a thourough job but still no change. Took it loose - did a fair job cleaning the frame surface rust and reconnected it. Looked the wire connections over and came to a ground at the frame near the trailer hitch lead. traced all movements I might have made that might've CAUSED the taillight issues. THEN thought back on what I might have caused when I took the bed off to replace a brake line in Sept. Changed all bulbs (were ONLY 25 yrs old) - Ck'd bulb sockets (all ok) Ck'd fuses and pedal switch - both ok. Only left turn worked - No brake lights - no running rear lights - no flashers - no backup lights. I have been fighting a taillight issue for 2 days. Look at the wires, because if it is not switch and not a bulb-fault, then as TBAS says it is probably wires, pinched or broken, from tail to switch to fusebox.īeen reading about all your various symptoms. IIRC bottom is backup and the top one is brake. Three bulbs: they just pull out but won't want to come easy. Use 1/4 nutdriver to remove 2 screws in rubbery thing. Unhook connector latch and carefully pull out. Flat rubbery thing with connector and 3 lumps. Unscrew, the lens un-hooks on the other side. Open tailgate, there's two (rusted) Phillips screws into the taillight lens. Change the brake lamp bulbs on a vehicle this old it is time to do that. The Owner's Manual may have clues.įuses usually blow for a reason. It is $5-$10 you might take ALL your truck data to the auto parts store, buy a new switch, then look for the same thing around the brake arm or under the hood. I think on most C/K 1500/2500 it is on the brake pedal arm or the arm hits it. It could also be a relay, the box is located in the engine bay and the relay will be marked, but its unlikely to be the problem. If you are unsure of the wire color associated with brake light function, you can access wiring diagrams online, but be warned, chev/gm have been known to change color codes from time to time. Solder and shrink tube the new wire to these pigtails and give it a test. Find the wire and clip it about 4 inches back too. it will most likely be beside your brake fluid assembly, in a cluster, entering the firewall.

If it was me i would clip the wire at the tail light harness, about 4 inches back, then move to the engine bay and look for the same wire there. If you do find a faulty wire, just run a new one from the engine bay to the back and splice it in.

Most spots would be at anchor points, junctions, etc.

Running this way leaves them exposed to the elements.Ĭheck along the run for rotted, broken or degraded wire. They run through wire shroud from front to back along the inside of the frame to the left tail light. The most common reason rear lights of any kind will fail is rotted wires.